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Chef Nuit Regular impresses with her elaborate, one-of-a-kind vision of royal Thai cuisine. The elegant space is a prime setting for equally elegant dishes, which are presented with flair. Colorful mounds of rice, pineapple and dumplings shaped like flowers, and so much more arrive in petite forms in small bowls and on large platters. The dishes themselves will ring familiar, from Isan-style sausage and larb, to hot and sour beef soup and the famed khao soi, all of it seasoned and spiced in a measured manner. The tender Boombai short rib glossed in a dark curry is a particular standout. First-timers should start with the signature chef’s tasting, which nearly covers the entire menu alongside a few bonus dishes.