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Far from the subway stop on a quiet street in Williamsburg, find this welcoming omakase counter hidden away near Domino Park. Chef Cheng Lin sets the tone as a friendly, relaxed guide for the night’s proceedings. And whereas some chefs practically take vows of silence with regards to sourcing and technique, he is quick to share where in Japan the fish is from, why he uses Inochi-no Ichi rice, and what it took to find his special aged soys and vinegars. His intentionality delivers in the form of excellent, seasonal product and a fine-tuned parade of nigiri, for which the rice is refreshed repeatedly. Prepared dishes like binchotan-seared sawara with citrus sauce, shiso, and nori or even a restorative cup of dashi with mushrooms also show distinction.