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Eating here is serious business, but happily the place isn’t blighted by a monastic atmosphere—a contented buzz fills the room, helped along by the chefs who deliver the dishes themselves.
Chef Fredrik Berselius and his ace team delight diners with their highly accomplished Nordic cuisine. Local products are woven in to the seasonal tasting, and items like prawn shells and venison bones are transformed into luscious sauces that enhance each plating. Dinner is sure to start on a high note, when Danish kingfish crudo crowned by a dollop of Osetra caviar and dressed with a gooseberry and juniper oil vinaigrette is set on the table. New York state trout may be composed with salted white currant and paired with an aebleskiver enriched with trout belly.