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After closing its original location, this favorite from Chef Jonathan Waxman reopened just a few blocks away. The feel of the space is much the same, with the likes of a humming kitchen and arched windows with views of the Hudson. On colder days, the wood-burning oven provides a focal point in what is a fairly industrial space, but one with a laid-back vibe that's helped along by confident service and a crowd of regulars.
The place is rather large with tables scattered throughout and typically piled with dishes from the simplified but approachable and distinctive Italian menu. Products and technique in these dishes are strong, as may be seen in the polpetti, a crisp, hearty and delicious pork meatball appetizer, tailed by the infamous pollo al forno.