Why visit Bologna, the sumptuous red city in Emilia-Romagna

At the foot of San Petronio Basilica, the Quadrilatero district is Bologna’s commercial and food hub. For centuries, this network of narrow streets has been teeming with must-visit addresses: artisanal shops, which you can guess from the name of the streets (Drapery Street, Locksmiths’ Street), and food businesses that keep local traditions alive. Fishmongers, cheesemongers and grocers proudly display their wares, often directly on wooden tables set up outside under the porticos or corbel arches. At its heart, the Mercato di Mezzo is a foodlovers’ paradise. You can taste local specialties on the spot or buy fresh produce to bring back home. The storekeepers will tell you: mortadella, a cold meat native to the city, should be enjoyed just as it is, finely sliced, with a glass of white lambrusco and a few mouthfuls of pecorino dei Colli Bolognesi.

Warm and colorful, the red city also boasts a wealth of museums. At the edge of the Giardino del Cavaticcio, the Museo d’Arte Moderna di Bologna (MAMbo) is one of the largest contemporary art museums in Italy. Among others, it is home to the richest collection of works by Giorgio Morandi, a modern painter and engraver native to Bologna. Even more fascinating, the Pinacoteca Nazionale brings together major works from the Italian Renaissance, including those by old masters such as Raphael, Perugino, Giotto and the Carracci brothers.

For history buffs, the Museo civico Archeologico and Museo civico Medievale are a must. Housed in a 17^th-century palace, the first traces the history of Emilia-Romagna since prehistoric times. The second plunges you into the intrigues of Bologna’s great families in the Middle Ages, with sparkling armor and precious manuscripts. Last but not least, don’t miss the Davia Bargellini industrial art museum, a real cabinet of curiosities that presents the craftsmanship of a city that is always in motion.

In Italy and elsewhere, Bologna is synonymous with fine food. Here, eating is not just a pleasure, it’s a way of life! World famous but often incorrectly called “spaghetti bolognese,” tagliatelle al ragù bolognese finds its true expression here: a tomato ragù combining ground beef and pancetta, served with fresh tagliatelle and parmesan. Simple and incredibly tasty! Another delicacy from Emilia-Romagna, cotoletta alla bolognese is an extremely gourmand variation on veal Milanese, in which a breaded veal cutlet is generously sprinkled with parmigiano reggiano and wrapped in Parma ham.

To discover these specialties in an authentic setting, visit Trattoria di Via Serra, a simple and friendly restaurant in Bolognina, the former working class district with a host of great places to eat. More central, Trattoria da Me is a sure bet with its menu that stays true to traditional recipes and a number of specialties with a twist.

Located at the heart of Northern Italy, on European Route E45 that connects Sicily to Norway’s northernmost county, Bologna is an ideal starting point for exploring the treasures of Italy. In less than two hours, you can reach Florence, the cradle of the Renaissance, renowned for its museums and architecture. Venice, the romantic city on the water, awaits you the same distance away on the Adriatic Coast. Other gems such as Verona, the city of Romeo and Juliet, or Parma, with its refined look so well described by Stendhal, can be reached in under two hours. Even the fashion capital Milan is only three hours away!