Weekend: 3-day stay around Arcachon Bay
©Jean-Philippe Navarro/iStock
From the Dune of Pilat to the wild beaches of Cap Ferret, Arcachon Bay—or Bassin d'Arcachon—lends itself to an idyllic weekend replete with sea air, oyster huts and the Atlantic Ocean. Spend three days exploring this territory tucked between land and sea: just follow the coastal paths!
Day 1 – Arcachon and the Dune of Pilat, oceanfront icons of the Gironde department
- Morning
Begin your stay in the Ville d’Hiver neighborhood, in the heights of Arcachon, where Belle Epoque villas form a maze of centuries-old turrets, verandas and gables. Start up the avenue towards the Sainte-Cécile observation tower and cross the metal footbridge designed by Paul Régnauld and Gustave Eiffel: on one side, you see pointed roofs and wrought-iron balconies, on the other, the deep blue of the bay in the distance.
Nearby Mauresque Park overlooks the city, offering visitors shady paths, Mediterranean trees, and a first viewpoint of the rounded edge of the bay. Heading down towards the shore, walk along the promenade between Thiers Pier and Boulevard de la Mer. There, the daily life of this seaside resort gradually comes into view: sailboats on the water, families taking a stroll, striped bathing huts on the fine sand. The to-and-fro of taxi-boats and pinasses (small flat-bottomed boats) liven up Thiers Pier to the rhythm of rising and falling tides.
In Arcachon, be sure to stop by the renowned Patisserie Alain Guignard in the Moulleau neighborhood. In summer, try one of their famous homemade frozen desserts. Cooler winter days call for cannelés (small rum cakes) and chocolates, to be sampled on the beach.
- Lunch
For lunch, you will find local specialties galore at Les Halles d’Arcachon, a Baltard-style covered market: fresh produce, regional seafood and vegetables. Choose your menu from the catch and pick of the day, and enjoy a meal on the covered terrace. Now you’re ready to head for the Route du Pyla, along the Boulevard de l’Ocean (D218). The drive winds through seaside lodgings, elegant villas tucked away behind cypress trees and the first sand dunes… you are approaching the Atlantic. - Afternoon
At last, you are at the foot of the Dune of Pilat, the highest dune in Europe. Climb to the top via the stairway set up during the summer season, or by heading straight up the sandy slope. The view changes with every step you take: the Landes pine forest as far as the eye can see, the entrance to the bay and the endless ocean. From June to September, a boat shuttle service takes you from the Dune to the Banc d’Arguin, a huge offshore sand bank. Accessible at low tide, this natural reserve attracts bird lovers and discreet swimmers to the heart of a fragile ecosystem, constantly sculpted and shifted by the tides. - Evening
For dinner, book a table at the Skiff Club, a restaurant with two Michelin stars, featuring seafood and other regional fare. Spend the night at La Co(o)rniche hotel in Pyla, facing the Dune, and wake up to an invigorating view of the ocean.
©Jean-Luc Ichard/iStock
Day 2 – From Gujan-Mestras to Le Teich, oyster farming and bird-watching
- Morning
Your second day begins at Gujan-Mestras, where you will follow the coastal path to visit a unique succession of seven oyster ports: La Hume, Larros, Meyran, Gujan, La Barbotière, Canal and La Mole. Throughout the day, wooden huts paint the landscape with their bright colors, while waves lap up against the oyster racks at low tide. Stop off at the Maison de l’Huître and dive into the history of the Bassin d’Arcachon: models, maps and first-hand accounts relate the savoir-faire of local oyster farmers. This visit offers insight into daily life in the bay and the deep connection that residents have with their lagoon. - Lunch
For lunch, take a seat at the Bistro’ 50, a stone’s throw from the beach and La Hume port. Here, depending on your mood, you can share sea bass, pork confit croquettes or egg with mayonnaise and verjus. The wine cellar features bottles from small organic vineyards, carefully paired with each dish (to be enjoyed in moderation). - Afternoon
After lunch, head over to Le Teich Ornithological Reserve, a protected 110-hectare area with nearly six kilometers of marked paths. You will find some twenty bird-watching points as well as a panoramic platform along your walk: binoculars in hand, you can admire the dance of the storks, spoonbills, sea gulls and herons, depending on the season. And if you feel like fresh-water activities for a change of pace, you can paddle down the Leyre in a canoe, from Salles or Mios to its delta. - Evening
At the end of the day, the Villa La Tosca opens its doors to you in Lanton, in a Belle Epoque residence facing the bay. Revel in the quiet of the garden and sunlight glancing off the water, halfway between Andernos and Le Teich.
©Jean-Luc Ichard/iStock
Day 3 – From Andernos to Cap Ferret, immersion on the Atlantic coast
- Morning
Start your day in Andernos-les-Bains, a seaside resort famous for its casino and its 4.6 kilometers of sandy beaches. At the foot of the Saint Eloi church, travel back in time as you explore the Gallo-Roman villa, a remnant of this site’s ancient occupation, then continue on to the long pier jutting into the bay. From there, climb aboard a tour boat for an excursion around Ile aux Oiseaux: the boat follows the channels lined with oyster farms and swings wide of the famous tchanquées (fishermen’s huts) built on stilts, providing a whole new vantage point to admire the scenery. - Lunch
From Andernos, take the D106 road to the Cap Ferret peninsula dotted with oyster-farming villages such as L’Herbe: its brightly colored huts and narrow streets brimming with flowers make it the perfect spot for oyster tasting, right on the waterfront in a fisherman’s house.
Each zone of the Bassin d’Arcachon confers a special flavor on its oysters: subtle sweetness at the Banc d’Arguin, plant-based notes around the Ile aux Oiseaux, accents of fresh vegetables at Cap Ferret and hints of white fruit at the Grand Banc. Try your hand at identifying these subtle flavors, and picking a favorite.
- Afternoon
In the afternoon, explore the coastline of the cape on foot or by bike through the Lège forest, on paths surrounded by pine trees. Cross wide clearings and follow the dunes to reach Truc Vert beach. There, you can bathe in the waves, relax on the sand or just contemplate the Dune of Pilat in the distance. Be careful in the water: this area has strong currents and rip tides. Further on, the path takes you to the Cap Ferret lighthouse. From its 57-meter-high platform you can see the peninsula, the ocean, the entrance to the bay and the tip of the Banc d’Arguin. A sweeping view to finish your outing on a high note! - Evening
End your weekend at the Auberge du Bassin, in Lège-Cap-Ferret, a perfect landing place overlooking Sangla Cove. The chef, Mélanie Serre, adds her own spin to bistro cuisine with meticulous and inventive dishes: pâté en croûte, mimosa leeks or beef Wellington, depending on availability. Pair your dinner with a natural wine or a premium appellation (in moderation, of course), then enjoy one last view of the bay, bathed in light.
©Jean-Philippe Navarro/iStock
The Bassin d’Arcachon is a charming get-away any time of year, but spring and fall are ideal: quiet paths, accessible beaches, lively ports without the holiday crowds. The first migrating birds arrive in the nature reserves as of March, delighting bird-watchers.
You can always vary your pleasures, but if you decide to stay in the same lodgings all weekend, your best bets are Arcachon or La Teste-de-Buch: both are conveniently located to access the main sites, and offer a wide range of accommodations.
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