Tour along the Oise River, between Compiègne and Chantilly

Your journey begins in Compiègne, where the former residence of French sovereigns since the Carolingian era is to be found, a stone’s throw from the banks of the River Oise. Built under Louis XV and then extended in the 19^th century, the château presents its imposing neoclassical facade opposite Place d’Armes. Cross the threshold and explore the historic apartments: more than 40 rooms decorated with 18^th-century wood paneling, French Empire furniture designed by Jacob-Desmalter, and sumptuous tapestries plunge you into the world of the royal courts.

You then come to the Second Empire museum, which occupies several rooms on the second floor. You discover portraits of officials and sculptures, including Empress Eugénie Surrounded by her Ladies in Waiting by Franz Xaver Winterhalter (1855), a huge canvas that reproduces the hushed atmosphere of imperial receptions. On the first floor, the National Car Museum displays emblazoned carriages, English mail coaches, and the first automobiles, over a period ranging from the 17^th century to the early 20^th century. The lacquered bodywork, iron-rimmed wheels, and upholstered interiors bear witness to the changes in aristocratic modes of transport. After this royal day, head to Rhizome, where seasonal produce, short food supply chains, and organic wines are given pride of place in beautiful market cuisine.

Leave the town heading east and enter the Forest of Compiègne, a remnant of the immense Forest of Cuise. Spanning 14,500 hectares, this area unfolds between the Oise and Aisne Valleys in a vast network of trails, cycle paths, and passable tracks that criss-crosses the high forests of oak and beech. By car, the D973 and D332 allow you to reach Pierrefonds, with a few stops along the way for short hikes in the undergrowth. By bicycle, hop into the saddle at Carrefour Royal and choose one of the two cycle paths that run through the forest from west to east. Route no. 1 takes you to Pierrefonds in 11.3 kilometers via Vieux-Moulin, a hamlet with low houses. Route no. 2 (14.5 km) passes through Saint-Jean-aux-Bois, a scattered village nestled at the heart of the massif. Ferns line the route, the shade of the branches filters the light, and you sometimes come across walkers drawn to the Beaux-Monts to the north or the Grands-Monts to the south.

Just a few kilometers from Pierrefonds, you reach Le Moncel Royal Abbey, founded in 1309 by Philip the Fair next to a castle, of which two towers remain. This Poor Clares’ abbey (Order of Saint Clare founded in 1212) enjoyed its heyday in the middle of the 14^th century. Enter the courtyard surrounded by three wings covered by a recently renovated high brown-tiled roof. The gallery of the cloister, which dates from the 16^th century, presents elegant arcades, while the refectory (14^th century) preserves wall frescoes in faded pigments, fragile souvenirs of the monastic life of the period. You then reach the Gothic charter room, which houses remarkable stained-glass windows featuring coats of arms. In the attic, look up at the frameworks made of oak from the Forest of Halatte (14^th century), which demonstrate medieval construction techniques.

For this fifth stop, pass through the Forest of Halatte to Senlis, a former royal town encircled by a Gallo-Roman enclosure from the 3^rd century. In the town center’s narrow streets, stroll among the noble residences, including the Hôtel des Trois-Pots, a half-timbered building on Rue du Châtel. Notre-Dame Cathedral, built from 1153 onward, rises above the rooftops with a 78-meter spire. Admire its west portal whose polychromy has been restored and the south facade (16^th century), whose chiseled sculptures contrast with the Gothic austerity of the main entrance. Visit the nearby Museum of Art and Archeology, set up in the former episcopal palace. Its collections trace the town’s history, among Gallo-Roman remains and medieval statuary. Take a break from walking and go for lunch at Julianon, a family-run address in the center, then stop off at Maison Ringeval to pick up some Pavés de Senlis, the famous hazelnut milk chocolates coated in meringue, a crisp yet melt-in-the-mouth specialty.

The itinerary draws to a close in Chantilly, where the château, rebuilt in the 19^th century for the Duke of Aumale, is home to the second largest collection of antique paintings in France after the Louvre. Explore the Princes’ apartments, decorated with Gobelins tapestries and First and Second Empire furniture. In the Condé Museum, admire the Gallery of Painting with 85 restored paintings, along with the Clouet Room and its Santuario, displaying Raphael’s Madonna and 40 miniatures by Jean Fouquet.

Outside, explore the grounds designed by Le Nôtre in 1662, encompassing a Grand Canal and rustic Hamlet dating from 1774. Stroll among ponds, trimmed groves, and carefully arranged perspectives, before making your way to Jean Aubert’s Great Stables. Built in the 18^th century, they now house the Living Horse Museum. The stone vaults accommodate demonstrations and permanent exhibitions on equestrian history. To bring your stay to a beautiful close, book a table at Le Verbois, a restaurant boasting two Michelin stars that offers fine dining with regional accents.