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The most beautiful white villages in Andalusia

The most beautiful white villages in Andalusia

Le village de Ronda

©SeanPavonePhoto/iStock

Whitewashed walls, winding narrow streets, hilltop fortresses, and more. From Cadiz to Málaga in Southern Spain, the white villages of Andalusia boast a timeless charm. Wander around them on foot to appreciate the beauty of this heritage bequeathed from centuries past at every turn.

In the province of Cadiz, the White Villages Route forms a spectacular journey linking some twenty villages clinging to the rock over more than 120 kilometers. You drive from mountain passes to valleys, at the heart of wooded and limestone landscapes, to reach villages overlooked by their medieval fortress. A piece of history awaits you in each of them, marked by Muslim heritage, rural traditions, and Mediterranean life.

Arcos de la Frontera: a promontory above Guadalete Valley

The first stop, Arcos de la Frontera takes your breath away at first glance: set high on a rocky spur overlooking Guadalete Valley, its white houses seem to spring up from the cliff. This incredible picture harks back to the time when the town—which was considered impregnable—became the capital of a small Berber kingdom in the 11th century.

In its steep narrow streets, climb up to San Pedro Church, suspended on the brink of the void, then to Santa María de la Asunción, whose sculpted facade blends Gothic and Baroque styles. From the lookout points, the view encompasses fields of avocados, the twists and turns of the river, and hills of olive trees.

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Parking

The narrow streets complicate the flow of traffic. It is best to park your car in Paseo de Andalucía parking lot in the upper town or further down, around Plaza de España.

Le village d'Arcos de la Frontera

Le village d'Arcos de la Frontera (Andalousie, Espagne)

Grazalema: a white village set against the Peñón Grande

Via the A-372, the route winds its way up in a series of hairpin bends through Sierra de Grazalema. Pass through hills covered in oaks and exposed rocks, before the slopes become closer together and the vegetation becomes denser. The village of Grazalema then appears, nestled at the foot of the Peñón Grande mountain, whose faces overlook the red roofs.

You can explore a jumble of streets inherited from the Almohad era, with narrow passages, steep staircases, and flower-decked houses. Heading out of the village, paths take you under Spanish fir trees, a species endemic to the region. Feel the freshness of a unique microclimate, which makes Grazalema one of the wettest places in Spain.

(Andalousie, Espagne)

Le village de Grazalema (Andalousie, Espagne)

Zahara de la Sierra: a fortified small town overlooking the Guadalete River

On leaving Grazalema, the route goes through Las Palomas Pass before going down toward Zahara de la Sierra, a medieval bastion standing on a rocky spur. In the village, wander among the small sloping streets around Santa María de la Mesa Church.

A steep path leads to the 12th-century crenelated tower, all that remains of a Nasrid fortress. From there, pause to take in the fabulous sweeping view over Zahara-El Gastor Reservoir, an artificial lake fed by the Guadalete, and the neighboring mountains. Zahara also makes an excellent base for a hike to Garganta Verde, an impressive canyon with wild vultures soaring above.

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Did you know?

Whitewashed each spring, the houses’ white facades lower the indoor temperature by several degrees. This Andalusian practice, inherited from the Muslim era, has been passed down from the 10th century.

(Andalousie, Espagne)

Le village de Zahara de la Sierra (Andalousie, Espagne)

Olvera: a white village at a height on Vía Verde de la Sierra

Follow the A-384 to reach Olvera, a famous white village set on a hill. Its silhouette is marked by two monuments: the triangular 12th century castle, built by the Nasrids, and the neoclassical church built in the 18th century where a mosque used to stand.

Then stroll to the former train station, the starting point for the Vía Verde de la Sierra. Created along an unfinished railroad, this 36-kilometer route takes you by bike or on foot through tunnels, viaducts, and fields of olive trees.

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A local foodie find

In Olvera, La Tarara showcases Andalusian recipes. Enjoy salmorejo soup served warm with olive oil and bread, or ajo blanco, a creamy-textured cold almond soup.

(Andalousie, Espagne)

Le village d'Olvera (Andalousie, Espagne)

Setenil de las Bodegas and its troglodyte facades hugging the rock face

Setenil de las Bodegas is the most surprising of Andalusia’s white villages. Hollowed into a limestone fault in Serranía de Ronda, the village was built under the rock. On Calle Cuevas del Sol and Cuevas de la Sombra, vast overhangs serve as roofs for the dwellings and maintain a cool half-light.

Nearby, you can make out the ruins of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación Church, built in the 16th century on the site of a former mosque. Once filled with earthenware jars of wine and oil, the cellars are now home to bars and restaurants, welcome shelters from the heat.

(Andalousie, Espagne)

Le village de Setenil de las Bodegas (Andalousie, Espagne)

Ronda: the former village that became the capital of Serranía

Joining the A-367, you come to Ronda, an unmissable stop on Andalusia’s White Villages Route. The town overlooks the Tajo Gorge, plunging to a depth of 100 meters, carved by the Guadalevín River. You cross the Puente Nuevo, a monumental 18th century bridge, and contemplate the canyon from its esplanade.

In the old center, stroll around among defensive walls and Arab baths, then follow the narrow whitewashed streets to Plaza de Toros, one of the oldest squares in Spain. In the shade of Santa María la Mayor Church, soak up the richness of Ronda’s past before heading to the miradors opening out onto the Andalusian countryside.

Le village de Ronda

©SeanPavonePhoto/iStock

After Cadiz’s mountains, the route continues in the province of Málaga. For almost 160 kilometers, from Casares to Frigiliana, you follow the balcony roads above the Mediterranean, lined with fields of avocado and mango trees, and pass through half a dozen villages perched on a height. Less defensive than those in Cadiz, these villages are tiered on terraces around squares filled with flowers and viewpoints looking out onto the waves.

Casares: a small town clinging to the slopes of Sierra Crestellina

From the road, Casares appears like a white pyramid set against Sierra Crestellina. Built on terraces and buried under vegetation, the village is shot through with springs and wash houses. In the historic center, steep staircases take you up to the ruins of the old fortress.

The narrow streets weave among houses with ocher-tiled roofs connected by vaulted passageways. The sea then opens out below, and you can make out the Rock of Gibraltar on a clear day.

(Andalousie, Espagne)

Ruelle dans le village de Casares (Andalousie, Espagne)

Mijas: a white village on a balcony over the Mediterranean

On the slopes of Sierra de Mijas, this small town forms a maze of alleyways decorated with flower pots and ceramic cornices. In this rambling network, follow the remains of the Arab wall to the lookout garden, where the view takes in the blue skies and tiered rooftops.

Then linger in the shady small squares and take a look at Immaculada Concepción Church, before paying a visit to a pottery studio where the local tradition remains alive and well.

Le village de Mijas

Le village de Mijas (Andalousie, Espagne)

Frigiliana: a village in bloom on the slopes of Sierra de Almijara

From the N-340, turn off in the direction of Frigiliana via the MA-5105, a winding road lined with tropical orchards going down toward the coast. The town unfolds on the steep slopes of Sierra de Almijara, its white houses spread out facing the sea.

Explore the Moorish quarter, which has faithfully kept its medieval spiral layout, dotted with cobblestone staircases, decorated patios, and mosaic murals that offer a reminder of the Alpujarras revolt in the 16th century. Once again, numerous lookout points offer you a spectacular view over the Mediterranean.

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Hiking

Explore one of the finest hiking trails in the region: from Frigiliana, the GR 242 takes you to Nerja, covering 14.6 kilometers through orchards and wooded ravines, with sweeping views of the sea. The best time to follow this signposted route is in spring or the early morning.

(Andalousie, Espagne)

Le village de Frigiliana (Andalousie, Espagne)

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