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Drôme Provençale: the most beautiful hilltop villages around Grignan

Drôme Provençale: the most beautiful hilltop villages around Grignan

Vue sur le village de Poët-Laval (

©Bockelbam/Getty Images Plus

The town of Grignan, in the Drôme department, Provence, is dotted with hilltop villages with breathtaking views. Between Romanesque churches, cobbled streets and fragrant markets, you will discover places where history blends delicately with the colours of the South, along a quiet gastronomic itinerary.

Grignan, the heart of the Tricastin region, with the castle of the Marquise de Sévigné

Your adventure in Provencal Drôme begins in Grignan, where an imposing Renaissance-era castle dominates the village rooftops. Made famous by Madame de Sévigné’s letters to her daughter, this building is a magnificent 17th century castle, with salons featuring carved woodwork, painted ceilings and precious tapestries. From its terraces, the view sweeps over the vineyards of Tricastin, lavender fields and rows of truffle oaks.

A little further down, take a break at the calm and luminous Collegiate Church of Saint-Sauveur, where the illustrious letter-writing Madame is buried at the foot of the high altar. Continue through the flower-filled cobbled streets of the village to the Sévigné gardens, where cypress trees and lavender create an elegant location in the castle’s former orchard. In the evening, take a seat at the restaurant Clair de la Plume at the foot of the ramparts. Here, chef Benjamin Reilhes serves up a delicate, carefully designed cuisine, which awarded it a Michelin star.

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©Xantana/iStock

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Stopover

Upon leaving Grignan, make a stop at Domaine de Grangeneuve in Roussas. This family-run establishment offers a fine selection of wines from the Coteaux du Tricastin, which can be tasted on site.

La Garde-Adhémar, a terrace above the Rhône

To the west, La Garde-Adhémar reigns majestically above the Rhône Valley from atop a limestone promontory. Your first stop is the Church of Saint-Michel, whose clean lines, semicircular arches and finely crafted capitals are a perfect illustration of 11th century Provencal art. A few steps away, you will discover the Jardin des Herbes, a delightful garden hidden behind a gate at the foot of the southern rampart.

Lemon thyme, medicinal lavender and peppermint thrive between dry stone walls and narrow paths. The view opens up fully onto the valley, vineyards and olive groves, stretching as far as the Ardèche mountains. In the narrow streets, you can stroll among artisan shops and carefully restored houses.

Saint-Paul-Trois-Châteaux, between religious heritage and local specialities

Your escapade through Provence continues in Saint-Paul-Trois-Châteaux, the former religious capital of Tricastin. Larger than the surrounding hilltop villages, the town retains a strong architectural identity, marked by the presence of the Notre-Dame Cathedral. Inside, its harmonious proportions and sculpted details bear witness to meticulous medieval craftsmanship. Nearby, the Maison de la Truffe et du Tricastin introduces you to the secrets of the ‘black diamond’, the truflle being the gastronomic symbol of the region.

This is your opportunity to try the fragrant olive oil and local AOP wines, perfect accompaniments to delectable truffles. For a break in nature, take a walk or bike ride along the 2.5 km greenway running across the city. This shaded path alongside an old railway line, goes through several gardens and orchards, where the scents of pine and fig trees sometimes waft through the air.

La cathédrale Notre-Dame de Saint-Paul-Trois-Châteaux

La cathédrale Notre-Dame de Saint-Paul-Trois-Châteaux, en Drôme provençale (Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, France)

Richerenches, the historic capital of Tricastin truffles

Next, head to Richerenches, the undisputed stronghold of the Tricastin black truffle. From November to March, this charming village comes alive every Saturday during the weekly market, where trade negotiations are sometimes conducted in hushed tones by an open crate. To understand this tradition, step inside the Truffle and Wine Museum, housed in the former Templar Commandery.

There, you will discover the links between truffle farming, the Knights Templar and artisanal know-how, through tools, documents and carefully staged displays. Nearby, the church of Saint Denis and the remains of the ramparts recall the medieval heritage of the village, still visible in the layout of its narrow streets.

Truffes noires

Truffes noires

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Did you know?

Although located in the heart of Drôme Provençale, Richerenches belongs to the Vaucluse département. The village is part of the Enclave des Papes, a territory formed in the 14th century around Valréas, when Pope John XXII bought these lands to cultivate vines. This curiosity still persists today.

Nyons and the black olive of Provence

The penultimate stop is Nyons, a village famous for its black olives and fruity AOP olive oil. After crossing the medieval bridge over the Eygues River, stroll through the narrow streets of the town centre, lined with stone arcades and small squares with fountains. To discover the secrets of the local olive industry, head to the Espace Vignolis. The olive museum displays presses, pruning tools and scenes from the harvest. Opposite the museum, the Comptoir des Vieux Moulins lets you visit a historic olive press still operating today.

You can watch the different stages of production, from crushing to decanting, then savour the oils with their powerful aromas. Finally, if you are there on a Thursday morning, do visit the Provençal market to taste tapenades and other local specialities, before leaving with a bottle of freshly produced oil. A delicious gourmet touch to take home as a souvenir from your time in Provence.

Huile d'olive de Nyons (Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, France)

Huile d'olive de Nyons (Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, France)

Le Poët-Laval, a medieval village surrounded by greenery

Finally, as you travel up the Jabron Valley, you arrive at Le Poët-Laval, a former commandery of the Knights Hospitaller of Saint John of Jerusalem, built on a wooded hillock. The cobbled streets wind their way to the top of the village: narrow paved streets, ramparts and stone houses form a remarkably well-preserved medieval ensemble.

You then go down to the Museum of Protestantism in the Dauphiné area, housed in an elegant mansion, to learn about the history of the Huguenots in the Drôme. Finally, take the paths around the village, which offer panoramic views of the Haut-Diois hills and the surrounding countryside.

Vue sur le village de Poët-Laval (

©Bockelbam/Getty Images Plus

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On a stroll

From Le Poët-Laval, you can continue your journey to Mirmande, 35 km to the north. Listed as one of the ‘Most Beautiful Villages in France,’ the village offers breathtaking views of the Rhône Valley and is home to many artists’ studios.

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