Although considerably larger than other islands in the archipelago, Nusa Penida remains unspoilt by tourism. To the east it has fine beaches but swimming is limited by seaweed farming: the Karangsari cave hews a tunnel in the rock and opens onto a green valley. The route climbs into the hills... From Klumpu, a track leads to the spectacular cliffs of the south coast, in bygone days negotiated by ladders to reach the fresh water of natural springs.