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Forty kilometres south of Recife, the Cape of St Augustine is surrounded by sublime beaches. To the north lies Calhetas, a splendid creek fringed with coconut palms where a handful of fishing boats bob about; it is accessible from the village by a track (1km). Pedra do Xaréu is just as ravishing but snubbed by tourists. To the south there is the huge white-sand beach of Suape, which is the private preserve of a luxury resort.