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Ris Lacoste helms the stove at this terrific neighborhood spot, a draw for diners in the company of family, business associates and lovers alike. The sprawling, light-filled dining room is dressed in earth tones and filled with intimate corners for an air of seductive sophistication. And the menu, with its ramped-up takes on the tried-and-true, toes the line between familiar and surprising.

Loaded with butter and olive oil and jazzed up with red pepper flakes, linguine with clams is briny and delicious and chicken Milanese has just the right amount of breading beneath its zippy tomato topping. Even the crown of cauliflower is interesting and complex, thanks to an ensemble of roasted vegetables slicked with mustard cream and an army of flavors.