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It is highly rare for a tasting menu to leave one feeling—well—energized, but so goes the imaginative cooking at this vegetable-focused gem. Who knew that turnip juice makes for good bread or that oysters can turn into a creamy and yet entirely creamless sauce? Chef Rob Rubba did, and his creations are delicious insights into what is possible with vegetables.
Thin strands of fried celery root weaved around smoked tofu and garnished with onion powder is delicate and replete with umami. Roasted lion’s mane mushroom with spring onion mole and black-eyed peas is a combination you didn’t know you were craving. Local farms are the very essence of this sustainable restaurant; even carnivores cannot deny its food is original, confident and tastes as good as it looks.