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Many diners walking into East End's shiny Capitol Crossing development already know what they’re ordering. Chef David Deshaies' 40-layer lasagna has captivated the city’s attention and rightfully so. Tender short rib, truffled mornay and razor-thin sheets of pasta make for a delicious trinity that tastes as good as it looks.
With soaring ceilings and windows to match, this Italian kitchen has plenty more to offer. A wood-burning grill and pizza oven allude to its other strengths. At no point does any dish want for flavor, down to the charred cabbage buried under a riot of trout roe, tarragon and currants. Some will be perfectly content sidling up to the expansive bar for a glass of vino and round of snacks, like saffron arancini or duck ravioli.