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Sushi omakases can be serious affairs that cost as much as a ticket to Tokyo, but this counter by Chef Maumi Ozaki is a refreshingly affordable alternative. Once seated, Ozaki gets right to business. Do you need water? You’ll have to ask. Wondering about wine or sake? Sorry, it’s just green tea here. You hardly notice since Ozaki delivers nigiri with rapid-fire progression, his movements practiced and confident. He uses wasabi minimally and dresses fish with little more than a quick brush of nikiri. Dinner is over in under an hour. Some will stay to order a few more pieces, up until Ozaki shoos them out the door to make way for the next seating.