A former orphanage provides an out-of-the-ordinary venue for the cuisine of Yohann Chapuis, who learned the ropes at Lameloise. The chef crafts food rich in “taste and emotion”, which has its own distinct identity and character, thanks to premium seasonal produce, like scallops, day-boat turbot and game, all exquisitely presented. As examples, take these ormers from Brittanny, with mushrooms, watercress and juniper, or Bresse chicken cooked three ways, with red-wine poached pears. An excellent wine list and a knowledgeable sommelier complete the picture.