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In a sun-drenched space that could pass for a precious tearoom, this neighborhood gem is a reliable crowd-pleaser. Colorful, market-driven cooking starts with excellent, crusty house bread made with garlic scapes, sundried tomatoes, olives or whatever else the chef has in mind. Are soft shell crabs in season? Is it time for morels? Such questions are front of mind for this honest kitchen, which doesn’t get too fussy with the cooking. Familiar flavors ring true in hearty entrees like the meltingly tender Cornish hen brushed in a smoky-sweet barbecue sauce. Fresh pasta, like the braised oxtail tortellini, conveniently comes in appetizer portions. The pacing here can be a bit leisurely, but when the food is this satisfying, what’s the hurry?