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The friendly couple who run Kuhara—the chef a disciple of Japanese cuisine, the proprietress a welcoming figure in kappo wear—make us instantly feel at home. The signature fare is duck. In addition to salt-grilled duck, they offer chilled breast stew in summer, and a hot duck stew called jibuni in winter. Dried baby fish with soy and pepper on rice and Kokusho miso soup of root vegetables are must-try items. Unripe pepper is gathered by the couple and their children when they visit her hometown in Tochigi Prefecture. Kokusho soup brings back memories for the chef, who sampled it when he applied to a restaurant specialising in shojin ryori.