The restaurant name ‘La Lune’ is a juxtaposition: the house is the moon, and the customer is the sun. The restaurant’s glow, its proprietor says, is no more than a reflection of guests’ approval. As celestial bodies move, the seasons wheel. Flowers and herbs that garnish each plate join the ingredients in imparting a sense of season. Idiosyncratic items abound, including shrimp with carrot fondant and foie gras with grilled watermelon. Earnest perfectionism shines in every morsel.
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