Noshers will rejoice at the prospect of this charming, quirky and convivial concept, whose menu of shareable plates makes snacking practically de rigueur. Front and center is a selection of artisanal cheeses and charcuterie, which deserves serious consideration. Heartier dishes, like steaks, pass muster; although much of the fun lies in smaller bites. To wit, there's a section devoted to adroitly prepared offal, whether it be French-inflected rabbit kidneys with Cognac; or fried veal sweetbreads with a sweet and sour glaze. Diners with a less carnivorous bent may rest easy as there are vegetarian options aplenty. Desserts show a touch of whimsy, like a charming “dirt pie” fashioned into the likeness of a flowerpot by way of a molded chocolate shell.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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