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The city has its share of intimate omakase counters, but few offer quite as much cozy charm as this six-seat gem in the Lower Haight. Walking through the unmarked door on Divisadero puts diners in the experienced hands of Chef Ken Ngai, a native of Hong Kong who mastered his craft at respected sushi spots here in the Bay Area. The menu’s approach straddles tradition and creativity, spanning a moderate selection of skillfully prepared nigiri, featuring unconventional toppings like cured egg yolk and preserved plum. Apart from the sushi, a variety of small composed plates shine especially bright, as in a silky chawanmushi luxuriously flavored with crab and dried scallop, or an intriguingly sweet-savory dish of poached ikura in a refreshing ume broth.