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Although reservations are now open to the public, an air of exclusivity still pervades this hot-ticket counter, not least of all because of the Olympian price point. What that pretty penny buys, however, is one of the most engaging and indulgent omakase experiences in town, replete with enough luxury to sate even the most committed of sybarites. Sip on delightfully unique cocktails with the likes of black truffle amaro or sesame orgeat, and enjoy a parade of bites highlighting seafood of impeccable quality, much of it painstakingly dry-aged in house. Traditional nigiri and sashimi are served alongside cooked dishes, as in cherrywood-smoked unagi brightened with the prickle of sansho pepper, or binchotan-grilled spot prawn with ramp butter.