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Live fire is of the essence at this high-ceilinged and elegantly appointed dining room. Chef Christopher Bleidorn's skill lies in his ability to combine the rugged appeal of flame-kissed meats with a delicate touch and palpable sense of whimsy. Look no further than the lacquered quail with grilled Parker House rolls and crunchy pickles to be assembled à la Peking duck. His team's impressive variety of techniques wring out every fleck of flavor from such pristine ingredients as creek trout, presented as roe with kelp kombucha sabayon; or "tail end" lox served on crispy skin.
The playful and spontaneous spirit carries on until the end—with the possible arrival of tart blueberries and crème fraîche hidden beneath lemon mochi bites and a bee pollen-dusted tuile.