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In the historic fishermen’s district, this “zoko moko” (which means ‘peaceful spot’ in Basque) is quite the local landmark and often fully booked. Charles Olascuaga crafts contemporary straightforward food that is served in a charming interior dripping in authentic cachet (old stone walls and a large fireplace) or on a small terrace. The menu keeps pace with the seasons and aims to showcase regional ingredients, illustrated by the catch of the day from the local fish auction, green risotto and a shellfish emulsion; haunch of tender veal and a medley of carrots in orange juice, ending with an irresistible millefeuille of caramelised apples and apple sorbet. Slick, low-key service.