Despite all signs, this isn't so much a Japanese haunt as much as it is the chef's own interpretation of the same nation's cuisine. The light-filled space hums with an attractive crowd, including locals who convene—under a lofty ceiling—at the welcoming bar. If that doesn't scream neighborhood jewel, an open kitchen offering creative bites is sure to fill the bill. A far cry from the restaurants of its native Japan, this contemporary operation features everything from nigiri, sashimi and handrolls, to tempura and hot dishes. Madeira-miso black cod as well as crab-and-pork dumplings are favorites; but diners should also try such specials as Maine bluefin topped with scallion, wild hirame brushed with white soy, or even Hokkaido uni shot with Osetra caviar.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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