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This small-format restaurant opposite Notre-Dame-de-la-Croix, in the heart of the 20th arrondissement, has buckets of charm and a country house feel. Tuscan chef Michele Farnese has good international credentials, as well as experience in French establishments such as Saturne and Thoumieux. With the name Dilia, he pays tribute to his ancestors, Dino and Illia. With a joyous sense of freedom, the chef cooks up his Italian cuisine. Sage takes pride of place alongside pillowy beetroot gnocchi and raw scallop shavings; the pasta is prepared in time-honoured tradition and marries perfectly with the bottarga and garlic bread. While the lunch menu is a good deal, the multi-course dinner menu ups the ante, and is accompanied by an excellent selection of French and Italian wines. Friendly and smiling service is provided by the manager and sommelier. A well-kept secret to (re)discover as a matter of urgency.