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If there are "writers' writers", then there are chefs' chefs. A Meilleur Ouvrier de France, a mainstay of the Ferrandi gastronomy school, promoter of culinary design, restaurateur in Tokyo, Éric Trochon is that sort of chef – admired and yet relatively little known. He and his sommelier wife preside over this modern, intimate-feeling restaurant with a decor that blends designer furnishings and unfinished walls. The menu also errs towards minimalism, with just two on-point proposals (one is an omakase menu). The dishes showcase French cuisine with Japanese and Korean touches, such as volaille du Gâtinais (PGI poultry) with wild cinnamon leaf and its succulent juices with white miso. Two places with a view into the kitchens are available at the counter.