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Chef Alain Pégouret inherited his love of precise, painstaking work from Joël Robuchon. For a first-hand taste of his craftsmanship, you only have to enter Le Sergent Recruteur, a historic tavern on Île Saint-Louis that has morphed into a fine dining establishment. The former chef of the Laurent displays an impressive command of his craft. His delicate dishes abound with crisp flavours – you can taste his solid classical foundations – and linger in the memory thanks to their coherence, the sophistication of the jus and sauces (illustrated by the Périgeux sauce that flanks the egg and black truffle mousseline or the royale sauce that is paired with hare in season and squid all year round), and their spot-on cooking. This establishment exudes a hushed, elegant vibe that artfully blends contemporary design and historic walls.