You'll know you're close to Hometown Bar-B-Que when you smell the wood smoke drifting through Red Hook. Set in a sprawling warehouse with communal tables and an industrial feel, it's a bit of a trek from Manhattan, but the counter-service lineup of expertly smoked meats makes it worthwhile. The spice-rubbed brisket remains essential: tender, juicy, with a vivid smoke-ring, and the homemade jalapeño sausage enriched with melted cheese is a standout. Sides like collard greens with smoked pork and tangy cold potato salad are must-haves. Save room for the banana pudding topped with fresh crumbled vanilla wafers.