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There is nothing like an omakase in the care of Chef Masa Takayama. The commotion of Columbus Circle gives way to the calm, collected ceremony of a room anchored by a strikingly smooth hinoki counter. Everything is in place, as chefs and servers work with a kind of harmony that recalls ballet. Every decision, every move, is in the service of his distinctive style, which many have copied but none have mastered. Fragrant white and black truffles, pearly beads of Osetra caviar, and vibrant garnishes make for brilliant touches that straddle the line between luxury and excess. Few have both the imagination and the know-how to make foie gras nigiri, and few serve abalone so meltingly tender. It is a captivating experience that is singularly memorable.