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Under a new name, wine geeks far and wide can rejoice at the rebirth and return of the late Racines. In a space that feels cool without feeling cold, Master Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier has built a wine program with adventure, back vintages and surprising affordability in mind. She moves around the room showing equal hospitality to industry insiders and wide-eyed enthusiasts alike. Meanwhile, the kitchen knows its boundaries, delivering seasonal, friendly dishes that never threaten to overpower what’s in the glass. Highlights include lamb with chickpeas and mint and, for dessert, a delicate mascarpone mille-feuille made out of shatteringly thin sheets of phyllo. For a nightcap, don’t miss the mind-boggling selection of chartreuse.