Under its current leader, Christopher Lemerand, this kitchen showcases contemporary cuisine by way of a single tasting. There are numerous courses, each unveiling refined and nuanced dishes. Start with the likes of pommes soufflé with Kaluga caviar; parsnip meringue set atop a chicory "sable"; followed by a twist on the classic "Reuben" starring crusty rye bread, aged Wagyu, kraut and cheese. Chicken-fried quail with red-eye gravy is comfort on a plate; Dungeness crab with a "pocket" of its own cloud-light mousse is irresistible.
Dip your spoon into desserts like preserved satsuma mandarin curd or chocolate cake with huckleberry ganache. Equally dreamy, wines here run the gamut with selections offered by the half-glass—just ask.
Work in progress.