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This stylish 17C house, characteristic of the Paris region, is the quintessence of gourmet and bourgeois hospitality, depicted by a string of elegant sitting rooms. Chef Anne-Sophie Godry, former right-hand woman of the previous chef, is now at the helm of this institution that continues to attract epicureans like bees to honey. Godry has remained true to the establishment’s pedigree, gourmet ethos, as the house’s emblematic dishes bear witness: veal sweetbread with a foamy butter or textbook Paris-Brest, filled with a chicory-flavoured custard. It is as if time has stood still in the land of good food. The 400-strong wine bin adds a final flourish to this appetising and highly recommended portrait that is further enhanced by polished service with a smile. - MICHELIN guide inspectors