The personality of chef-owner Simon Martin shines brightly at this stylish, modern restaurant in the lively Ancoats area of Manchester, where every one of the well-spaced tables has a view of the kitchen. The same fixed price, surprise multi-course menu is now served at both lunch and dinner, and the emphasis is on seafood because, as Simon puts it, “we live on an island”. While most of the produce is British, dishes incorporate influences from Simon’s travels and experiences, most notably Japanese and Nordic. Powerful flavours are the chef’s hallmark, and the sophisticated, modern dishes are precisely crafted, original and well-balanced. Each dish has a thoughtfully chosen wine to complement it, the ambience is calm and unhurried, and the bright young team are enthusiastic and refreshingly free from pomp.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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