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Ever since his days at the much-mourned Arbutus, Anthony Demetre’s cooking has been defined by a refreshing lack of pomposity and showmanship. For him, it’s all about the flavours, not the frippery – so while his dishes might look quite simple on the plate, they really deliver in taste and thus reveal his considerable skills. His European menu is hugely appealing, as he regularly brings in new dishes to complement his specialities like crisp chicken with hand-cut macaroni, and his wonderful custard tart. 
This brasserie de-luxe may be part of the Sofitel London St James hotel but feels a wholly separate, stand-alone entity, especially as it has its own entrance on Pall Mall. It occupies a Grade II listed former banking hall and so boasts a certain grandeur without being overly formal. - MICHELIN guide inspectors