The Walnut Tree is an iconic restaurant with an illustrious past. Its location in the rolling borderlands of Wales makes it a destination kind of a place and its loyal band of regulars is testament to the quality of the cooking. The owners run it with heart and soul and, with its cosy open-fired bar and dining room hung with colourful art, it’s hard not love it too. Shaun Hill, the quintessential chef’s chef, has been here for over 20 years and has a great understanding of flavours and balance. This is bold, robust cooking using first class ingredients, including wonderful beef and game from the county and some fine French cheeses. For the most part, dishes are tried-and-tested but you’ll also see some influences from Shaun’s travels. The accompanying wine list is a connoisseur’s selection; look out for modest mark-ups on some finer bottles.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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