In his restaurant facing the Bassin du Roi, chef Gauthier Teissere, assisted by his wife Marguerite in the dining room, plays a modern, unabashedly modern score, jazzed up with occasional Asian note. The stylish, snug interior is the perfect foil for dishes that reverently respect the seasons. Each plate is a masterpiece, illustrated by a tartare of red tuna, avocado, chimichurri sauce or risotto of haddock with croutons in lemon butter.