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You climb up into the hills, along winding roads and past olive groves, to the spectacular 17C Villa Rospigliosi (designed by Bernini) which boasts breathtaking views. From here, you’re accompanied through various period-style rooms to the restaurant, where another surprise awaits: a modern, designer-style dining room with a few tables facing the stage-like open-view kitchen. Here, chef Marco Cahssai (whose grandfather emigrated to Italy from Eritrea) creates a single extensive tasting menu which offers plenty of flexibility, allowing guests to choose the number of courses they want or even to order the exact dishes that appeal to them, as if ordering à la carte. This talented chef’s imagination and creativity allows him to combine regional ingredients with surprising touches from further afield. The wine list is excellent, overseen by a new sommelier who – just like his predecessor – suggests superb wine pairings.