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The magnificent biodynamic La Raia farm, an enchanting 180-hectare oasis between Novi Ligure and Gavi, is home to a contemporary art foundation, the Rossi Cairo family winery, a Steiner school for employees’ children, guest accommodation, and this restaurant which benefits from a fertile ecosystem that provides much of its zero-mile produce. The cuisine is rooted in local traditions which have been reinterpreted in contemporary style. In the evening (and at lunchtime at weekends), choose between an à la carte, a tasting menu inspired by wines from the property’s estates between Gavi and Langhe, and a delicious “Sei mezze” menu featuring small samples of the restaurant’s most iconic dishes.