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Chef Carlos Gaytán plays host to non-stop crowds at Tzuco. Inside this gorgeous space—awash in homey earth tones and decorated with ceramics imported directly from Mexico—the energy is palpable and seating ample. But there’s no better perch in the house than at the chef’s counter, where the maestro himself leads his merry team and composes creative dishes that feel at once traditional and inspired. Slivers of pristine hamachi resting in an electric pool of cactus aguachile is a good place to start, as is the comforting tinga de pollo topped with a triangle of fried masa full of hearty black beans. Tacos, like ones filled with grilled octopus and puffed chicharron, are always spot on. There's always room for dessert, especially the horchata tres leches.