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Hidden away in the Cathedral Quarter is this modern, industrial-style restaurant named after a 200-year-old secret society. It’s a simply furnished place with a dark colour scheme and an open kitchen, and the enthusiasm of the young team who run it is palpable.
Chef Gareth McCaughey’s cooking has a modern touch with a nod to the occasional classic, like duck with ponzu or cod with sauce Américaine. His philosophy is to source top ingredients, mainly from Ireland, prepare them well, and not overcomplicate things. His Antrim beef with carrot, short rib and bone marrow is a case in point: the beef is perfectly cooked, the well-crafted sauce is delicious and the accompaniments are suitably unfussy. Gareth started out as a pastry chef, so it’s no surprise to find that the desserts are a highlight. - MICHELIN guide inspectors