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In the heart of the Gorges de l'Allier, the windows of this family-run hotel-restaurant look out over the bridge and the river. Firmly rooted in this rural setting, the Brun family – Philippe and Michelle, ably assisted by their son and his partner – elevate and refine this rugged landscape. They give pride of place to the many ingredients to be found in this corner of the world: mushrooms, Auvergne meats and cheeses, farmed char, but also wild plants and flowers. Tuck into delights such as veal fillet mignon, port wine-glazed turnips, spinach gnocchi and a mustard condiment, or a surprising "alliance" of citrus fruits, carrots and almond milk served with a mojito sorbet.