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Technique, creativity and a focus on and respect for the past are just some of the criteria that guide chef Matteo Vergine. His modern dishes aim to reflect the ancestral flavours of Brianza and Lombardy in bygone days when hunting, freshwater fishing, growing vegetables and gathering wild herbs were all part of everyday life. In the evening, choose between three tasting menus – in an effort to minimise food waste, guests are required to make their choice at the time of booking. We particularly enjoyed the quail served with its own broth and a brioche, and the gnocchi with stracchino cheese, caramel and venison bottarga. Lighter and less expensive options are available at lunchtime, as well as a convivial table for eight which can be shared with “strangers”. This love for the region extends to the whole of Italy when it comes to the wine list, which is concise yet personal and exclusively features natural Italian wines, all of which are served skilfully and with a wealth of information by sommelier Riccardo.