Open on weekday lunchtimes and Friday evenings, this dinky eatery in the hands of a veteran chef serves intuitive cuisine, made from scratch and often in front of the diner, starring local ingredients. His gourmet, wallet-friendly menu-carte changes weekly in line with market availability: red gurnard with Jerusalem artichokes and a veggie colombo; caramelised veal breast, crispy polenta and mushrooms in parsley and garlic.