Set in the swish, glitzy 1930s Monte Carlo Beach Hotel, revamped by India Mahdavi, the menu is the work of executive chef Marcel Ravin. Chef Domenico D’Antonio sets the plant-based, seafood score of Mediterranean inspiration to music. Everything serves a purpose in this repertory which aims to highlight each ingredient courtesy of big-boned, savvy seasonings: a striking poultry, seaweed, squid and foie gras pâté en croûte, or crispy soccarat rice with briny weever, calamar and sea snail. Time seems to stand still on the terrace facing the sea.