Whereas the original Japanese-Italian Angelina in Dalston is centred around a kaiseki-style set menu, here at the more casual and bigger Osteria, the focus is more on grilling over binchotan and the flexibility of a sizeable à la carte. Start with the delicious Hokkaido milk bread, followed by the likes of cod cheek karaage, fazzoletti with duck ragu and grilled dishes such as Church Hill chicken. Order the house fries too, and watch the covetous looks from your fellow diners. You can face the open kitchen counter in the cool, post-industrial room or watch the chefs at work in the ‘pasta lab’.