The name derives from an old Kyoto word meaning ‘balance’ or ‘harmony’. Simple arrangements and friendly service make for a pleasant experience. The decision to make all menu items à la carte was taken so customers could drop in casually. The head chef excels in wanmono (dishes served in small bowls) using shinjo, as well as fried foods. Guji knife-scored to look pinecone-like and grilled and bowls of white miso soup are standard fare and quintessentially Kyoto.