It quickly becomes clear that this friendly, buzzy venue is light years from your average Thai eatery. Everything is made from scratch with fresh, first-class ingredients and the flavours are both refined and rugged. Examples include fried rice balls with pork (Laab Nem Tod) and fried rice with crab and spring onions (Khao Pad Pool), without forgetting the starters that are ideal to share. The friendly, casual front-of-house team sets the tone and in summer, a few tables are laid on the pavement. A word to the wise: booking is essential, even at lunchtime!