The youthful, high-spirited brigade of self-taught chef Grégory Doucey sources top-drawer produce to craft an appetising lineup. Ingredient-led bistronomic fare that slaloms between rusticity and modernity, with flavour as the underlying goal: egg parfait in spinach and vieux Rodez cheese; braised beef, carrot purée, squash and Mont Ventoux spelt; roast figs and cream cheese ice cream…