Walk through the historic Passage Zuidpoort and you will come to this fine example of Dutch interwar architecture. The first impression is enchanting: the curved woodwork, bar, tiled floor and stained glass. By keeping their modern osteria intimate, Yonna and Ralph preserve its Italian soul. The ingredients and characteristic Mediterranean nuances are handled with finesse and a contemporary touch, with creativity never coming at the expense of authenticity. For example, they fill al dente ravioli with North Sea crab and leek, add a touch of sweetness with a carrot sauce, then finish it with a shore crab sauce for a briny note. Osteria Porta Sud remains rooted in familiar Italian cooking, to which the chefs bring their own distinctive subtlety and character.